ANNE STEVENS : THE HOUSE OF A COOKING TEAM

Jackie Cameron, Zandile Mchunu, Deli Nene, Zinthle Majola and the Hartford House Kitchen Team
(Photo : Cooked in Africa)

HARTFORD HOUSE

Jackie Cameron has racked up more accolades in the past few years than A.P. Arrow earned in the way of Voyager Miles as a racehorse, and they still keep pouring in. The latest came from one of the country's most revered critics, Anne Stevens, and it couldn't have been more complimentary. This time though, it wasn't only about food, but about Jackie's educational capabilities and her championing the cause of our disadvantaged community.

The kitchen at Hartford House near Mooi River is not all about five-star luxury. It's an inspirational setting that has transformed the lives of three women beyond their dreams.

And the person they have to thank the most is Jackie Cameron, the country house's executive chef and their mentor.

Zandile Mchunu, Deli Nene and Zinthle Majola have become valuable assets to a young woman who is widely regarded as one of the top in her field in South Africa, preparing innovative and exciting food that crosses boundaries.

Jackie, still in her late 20's, has risen to the top of her profession like, well, cream on milk.

Her credo is simple : "Be honest and true in everything you do, cook with love and your food will love you in return."

Hartford's kitchen team is made up of women, but, as Jackie says, this was purely by chance - other than that women are happier living in the country than male chefs who crave the bright lights.

Zandile Mchunu

Chef de partie Zandile: "My earliest memories are of making mieliepap with my mother. I loved those special occasions when she made curry and rice. I was always fascinated by how food can emphasise happy or sad moments in the life of a family."

She started work in the scullery at Hartford, but Jackie noticed how much she enjoyed cooking and she has risen through the ranks.

Last year Zandile attended the South African Food and Wine week at the World Expo in Shanghai with Jackie.

"Our cooking adventure started with a desperate cry: 'Chef, I have broken my arm.'" says Jackie. "We had been in Shanghai for exactly an hour and there was Zandile with a fractured wrist. But the one-armed chef did a remarkable job. Her perseverance was admirable and a lesson in commitment. Our traditional samp and beans, pap 'n vleis, bobotie and Durban bunny chow featured on the menu we had created. They went down well, and we were proudly South African."

Deli Nene

Deli is a third-generation member of the Mooi River community, starting work in 1995 as a hand in the horse division at Summerhill Stud farm, which, like Hartford, is owned by the Goss family.

She then worked as a domestic for 10 years, but her love of food eventually took centre stage.

"I grew up cooking with my mom and I always enjoyed it. I knew from a young age that I wanted to be a chef or cook, but didn't have the money to study. This was why I started working on the farm. As a domestic I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to do a quick cooking course. This fuelled my wish to work in the Hartford kitchen. So I decided to see if I could get a temporary job in Jackie's kitchen on my weekends off. Bit by bit I worked my way in. This was my long-term plan. It took 10 years to finally get a permanent job at Hartford."

"Her culinary talent, leadership, ability, teaching skills and enthusiasm have been inspiring to watch. She knows no limits," say Jackie.

Deli was selected by Unilever as one of its Inspiring Chefs for 2010/2011.

Zinthle Majola

Zinthle's mother, Helen, worked for Jackie in the scullery for six years.

"When Helen's mother fell ill she had to return home and look after the family," says Jackie. "I got no explanation as to what was going on, but one day a little Zulu woman appeared in my scullery - Helen's daughter, Zinthle. I remember one night saying, why are you here? Where is your mother? I found it very strange. But Zinthle got stuck in and very soon proved her worth. After having worked only 11 months in the scullery I promoted her to kitchen assistant. She now takes full control of the extensive breakfast menu at Hartford and controls all the daily baking. Very impressive, and such a joy and pleasure to work with."

DELI NENE : UNILEVER INSPIRING CHEF FOR 2010-2011

Chef Deli Nene
(Photo : Patrick Royal)

"THIS IS WHAT GETS US UP IN THE MORNINGS"

You're never going to make an independent fortune from racehorse breeding or a small boutique hotel, but both of these are the hand which fate has dealt us. That said, we wouldn't change them for the world, because there are other rewards that make our pursuits worthwhile.

In September this year, one of our junior chefs, Zandile Mchunu was chosen from across the country to represent South Africa at an international culinary exhibition in Shanghai. She was the third from our disadvantaged community to be selected for such an honour, and the third to have benefited from the tuition of Jackie Cameron. Jackie's own achievements are the stuff of legend, a testament to the enterprise and energy of a young lady of just 27 years. This is not about Jackie Cameron though, for a change, as you can find all you want on her on Google, or by visiting various places on this website.

This one is about Deli Nene, a third generation member of the Summerhill and Hartford communities, and a proactive "player" in the affairs of our farm family. It was her turn this week to make the headlines when multinational Unilever selected her in their illustrious band of "Inspiring Chefs for 2010/2011".

According to Jackie, "her perseverance and commitment to the company speaks for itself, having started in 1995 as a hand in the horse division at Summerhill. Her role quickly transformed from a horse lady to looking after the Muir household for 10 years. Her love for cooking and food soon outshone her other skills however, and she obtained a domestic household cooking certificate, which opened her doors into my kitchen. Who would have thought her journey would take her to this accolade when she started helping out on her weekends off, and eventually progressed to being permanent cook at Hartford. Her culinary talent, leadership ability, teaching skills and enthusiasm to learn and work with others has been inspiring and refreshing to witness. These qualities make her the woman she is today, and the chef she has become over the last few years. A true pleasure to work with, as she knows no limits... the world is her oyster".

Here's Deli herself :

"I grew up cooking with my mom and I always enjoyed it. I knew from a young age that I wanted to be a chef or cook but didn't have the money to go and study. This was the reason I started working on the farm. As a domestic in the Muir household, I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to do a quick-cooking course. This fuelled my wish to work in the Hartford kitchen even more so. So I decided to see if I could get a temporary job in Jackie's kitchen on my weekends off. Bit by bit I worked my way in. This was my long term plan. It took 10 years to finally get a permanent job at Hartford, and now this!".

For more information please visit :
www.hartford.co.za

SUNDAY TIMES FOOD AWARDS 2010

Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta
(Photo : Hartford House) 

"When a chef labels a dish panna cotta... it must be so..."

My job morphs into many different forms depending on the day and what is required of me.

A few weeks ago I was invited to help judge the Sunday Times Food Awards 2010, hosted in association with Foodcorp. Our task was to look for the hottest talent in our South African kitchens. Written entries were reviewed and a short-list of six contestants competed at the South African Chef's Association kitchen in Joburg. A first-class experience!

The requirement was that all meals were to express an African feel. A lack of imagination was evident – and we were completely Amarula"ed" out by the end of pre-judging with Amarula Crème Brule, Amarula Parfaits, Amarula Chocolate Mousse and Amarula Crème Anglaise. We were grateful Amurula did not feature as one of the compulsory ingredients in the final cook-off! The contestants were required to make interesting dishes from ingredients such as guavas, rhubarb, white peaches, fennel, strawberries, pigeon, springbok loin and lamb kidneys.

Terminology and an understanding of foodie words excite me so chef/judge table discussions around topical flavours and recipes were stimulating. Call me a purist – and I'll agree! When a chef labels a dish panna cotta it must be so - cooked in the traditional way in accordance to its name or custom. Panna cotta is the Italian word for boiled cream hence the method should reflect this.

A satisfactory sign for the competitors must have been witnessing the amount of food we judges ate over the two-day period. It was enlightening being in close proximity to the competitors and judging the unusual combinations they created in the tight conditions. Their standard of work was highly impressive. Entrants in all the categories (Sunday Times Chef of the Year, Sunday Times Young Chef of the Year, Sunday Times School Challenge and a new category: Sunday Times Stalwart of the Kitchen) had worked extremely hard to get to the final and each was as nervous and enthusiastic as the other. As a mark of respect I took my role as a judge very seriously. Their's was not an easy task and I take my hat (apron!) off to them.

I came home motivated to work with the ingredients used in the competition and to create my own methods. I'd like to share the following ideas :

Silky-smooth Amarula crème brule. Refreshing guava sorbet which, when served with a creamy gorgonzola and honey, makes for an interesting cheese course. Quick-and-easy vanilla-bean panna cotta, with "sexy hips" - not toO firm or too soft. A skilfully-textured Frangelico and pecan nut parfait, when served with a simple berry sorbet can be magical. Classical orange and Cointreau Belgium chocolate mousse – a favourite standby.

Straightforward strawberry crème anglaise served with fresh fruit is a perfect summer dessert. Rhubarb and strawberry compote is so versatile and can be served sweet, in a tart, or savoury, with a seared duck breast. Bring on your sweet tooth this month!

Take these recipes and try them.

AMARULA CRÈME BRULE
GUAVA SORBET
VANILLA BEAN PANNA COTTA
PECAN NUT PRALINE PARFAIT
STRAWBERRY CRÈME ANGLAISE
CLASSICAL ORANGE & CONTREAU BELGIUM CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
RHUBARB & STRAWBERRY COMPOTE 

I look forward to hearing from you.

Jackie Cameron
Head Chef
Hartford House
www.hartford.co.za
jackie@hartford.co.za
+27 33 263 2713

PUTTING AN "H" INTO DELICIOUS WITH ANNE STEVENS

Hartford House Restaurant
(Photo : Hartford House) 

HARTFORD HOUSE RESTAURANT

Anne Stevens has long ranked among the nation's top food critics. Certainly in KZN, she's the "Queen of Critics". She recently visited us :

The five-course dinners at Hartford House near Mooi River are R325 a head.

Is that expensive? Not at all, bearing in mind that one of the country's top chefs is in the kitchen, and getting better and better with each year of maturity.

Jackie Cameron is now so confident of her abilities that she allows herself little dashes of humour in her cooking, like a Maltabella ice cream at breakfast, a deconstructed peppermint crisp tart after an elaborate dinner and a lamb bunny chow made with mealie bread at lunchtime.

The highlight of a recent dinner was a deeply intense brown mushroom soup made with shiitake powder and truffle oil.

Its flavours lingered and it was perhaps wise to follow it with something fresh and light : Norwegian salmon tartare with cream cheese, smoky olives, microherbs (the new buzzword), lemon zest and croutons.

The play of textures and flavours was fascinating, and echoed in the next dish : seared springbok loin salad with pink peppercorns, beetroot, candied walnuts and little cubes of foie gras terrine.

With all that going before, and appetite pretty much sated, it was perhaps inevitable that the main was less memorable. But crispy Midlands duck breast with potato spaghetti, butternut puree, hazelnuts and cinnamon-infused red wine sauce would stand out on most restaurant menus.

Then the peppermint crisp tart, broken into individual pockets of chocolate, mint, cream and crunch.

There is a new lunch menu, served on the deep veranda in good weather, featuring the likes of local trout with almond potato cream, smoked salmon salad with nori seaweed terrine, and asparagus with exotic mushrooms in a Caesar dressing.

A duo of rabbit - hot terrine and loin wrapped in parma ham - sounds inviting, as do gorgonzola capelletti with olives, green beans, apple, toasted walnuts and walnut oil.

But then just about everything at Hartford is appealing.

It features one of my favourite breakfasts of all time : poached haddock sitting on a tuna fishcake, dressed with caviar, rocket and a subtle black sesame seed sauce.

Just add a corn fritter from the full English breakfast, and you have a winning way to start the day.

It's going to be interesting to watch what direction Jackie takes in the years to come.

Booking is also essential here : 033 263 2713

Extract from The Mercury Good Life

SUNDAY TIMES FOOD AWARDS WITH CHEF JACKIE CAMERON

Hartford House Executive Chef Jackie Cameron
(Photo : Sally Chance) 

SUNDAY TIMES FOOD AWARDS
2010

The Sunday Times, in association with Foodcorp, is looking for South Africa's hottest talent in the kitchen. The partnership is committed to supporting South Africa's chefs and food innovators through the awards.

Now in its fourth year, the competition aims to recognise and reward the country's top chefs - and it offers the largest prize money in South African chef competition history.

There are four categories in the competition - Sunday Times Chef of the Year, Sunday Times Young Chef of the Year, Sunday Times Chef School Challenge and a new category, Sunday Times Stalwart of the Kitchen. In each category, entrants are required to submit a menu using uniquely South African ingredients from a predefined list.

Hartford House's own award-winning chef Jackie Cameron is one of the judges for the competition and was interviewed recently by Hilary Biller. Following is an extract from the article published in yesterday's Sunday Times :

Q&A

Q : You are listed by SA Tourism as one of South Africa's young and upcoming chefs to watch. How does this make you feel?

A : Recognition always inspires me to continue re-inventing myself. It also increases the pressure of not wanting to disappoint the many people who have and are working with me.

Q : Has it been difficult being a woman in a male-dominated arena?

A : Definitely not. This has in a way pushed me to prove my worth. My parents, especially my father, brought us girls up knowing that anything is possible and that we have to work just as hard as any man if we want to get anywhere in life. Hard work and determination are the keys. But, at the same time, we girls should never lose our femininity.

Q : Hartford House, where you are executive chef, is known as one of South Africa's gourmet destinations. What gives the hotel the edge?

A : It's the only one in the world situated on a world-class stud farm.

Q : You are heading off to dine at El Bulli restaurant in Spain. Is chef/owner Ferran Adrià one of your food heroes?

A : Of course Adrià is one of my food heroes. Who would not be inspired by his creativity and absolute devotion to the cooking industry? I heard the other day that 90% of anything new in the world that a chef claims he or she created was inspired by something that has already been done.

Q : The emphasis today is on fresh, locally sourced ingredients. List three of your favourite suppliers.

A : I love keeping it local : Swissland Cheese for their goat milk cheese, La Petite France for their superb camembert and Wayfarer Trout for their fresh trout.

Q : What are three things every cook should know?

A : When in doubt, strain.

A : Any ingredients that grow under the ground, such as potatoes, must be cooked in cold water to start and anything above the ground, such as cauliflower, must be cooked in boiling water.

A : Always cook with the best quality ingredients you can afford. Never compromise on quality.

Q : If your kitchen was on fire, what would you grab?

A : The hand-written recipe books I have had in my kitchen, at Hartford House, for nearly eight years now. Each page tells a new story with all the different writing styles. Nearly every person who has been through the kitchen has written something in these books.

Q : Like all famous chefs, you must break down occasionally. What is your favourite takeout?

A : Mine is Chinese food, but I realised recently, after a trip to Shanghai, that the Chinese flavours I enjoy so much in South Africa are not necessarily the flavours one finds in China. I love "South African Chinese food", such as sweet-and-sour pork with noodles and fried rice.

Q : What dish have you failed to make successfully?

A : Putu pap. I never seem to make it as well as the ladies in the kitchen.

Q : What dish has your name all over it?

A : Our soups at Hartford represent my main basic principle about food - to always keep things simple and always highlight the main ingredient. Never over-complicate and confuse flavours.

Q : As a judge in the Sunday Times Food Awards, what advice would you offer prospective entrants?

A : Cook what you know and cook it well.

Q : What is the value of entering chef competitions?

A : It is a brilliant way to showcase a chef's talents and allows one the opportunity to grow and develop.

Visit
www.sundaytimesfoodawards.co.za