Howard Booysen Wines

Howard Booysen Riesling 2011

Vanessa Coetzee
General ManagerA lovely story about a young man who, with a passion for the food and beverage industry, has started producing beautiful wines in the Cape.

Howard Booysen worked in the hospitality industry for a few years as waiter and barman, whilst deciding where to study wine. He chose the world-famous Elsenburg Agricultural College (Stellenbosch) where he went on to obtain his B.Agric degree in Cellar Technology and Viticulture. After completing his studies, the Cape Winemakers Guild - a group of 41 independent winemakers - launched a Protégé programme. Howard was selected as their first apprentice to learn the art of making wine.

Howard Booysen explores the different winegrowing areas for the best quality varietals and grapes, and manages these vines accordingly, when sourcing the grapes.

The location of the vines are very important to him, ie. terroir (soil, aspect, climate, trellising, etc.). He nurses the vines by aerating the canopy efficiently and ensures the rot-prone and sunburn-sensitive cultivar receives enough shade. Ample bunches are dropped during the ripening season to ensure delicious concentrations and fruit components. He tastes in the vineyard every other day and samples regularly to determine the average sugar which will later determine the alcohol and, inevitably, the style.

Howard Booysen produces Cinsaut and Riesling.

At Hartford House we love his Riesling, of which the following has been said:

"Howard recently launched his debut wine, a 2010 Weisser Riesling in a "Kabinett-style". Brave, was said by some, but knowing the varietal well, and being passionate about food, aromas, age-able wines, and based in a sunny city, he was convinced that Riesling was what he needed to make."

This german-styled wine works beautifully with Jackie Cameron's Ostrich Tartar which picks up on the flavours Jackie recently enjoyed on her last trip to Germany.

For more information, please visit :

www.howardbooysenwines.com

Back To Basics

The Hartford Estate smothered in icy powder, August 2012
(Photos : Leigh Willson) 

"I found muscles in my body I'd forgotten I had while whisking, kneading and beating, and producing choux pastry for profiteroles for a more-than-a-metrehigh croque-en-bouche with no electricity was no joke."

Driving in the relentless snow through the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands in August showed me just how reliant I was on one of our most widely-used forms of energy - electricity.

The saga began on my return trip from Jo'burg. Usually it's quicker - and easier - to drive from Mooi River rather than to fly from Pietermaritzburg or Durban, but this trip back was a 9 1/2 hour nightmare through the heaviest snow storm I have ever experienced. During the drive home, I experienced such longing for the cosy ambience my home offers with under-floor heating and a warm bed, not knowing that for the next six days I'd be deprived of the luxuries I had come to take for granted. My saving graces that night were three duvets and my cat Mallow.

The next day wasn't much better - the deafening thud of snow from the trees above my cottage falling on to the corrugated iron roof kept me awake most of the night and at sunrise the dawn chill went straight through my bones. However, the biggest challenge for the day ahead wasn't the cold or the lack of sleep and cold - we were low on staff and not only did I have cooking demonstrations and an International Food and Wine Society dinner, but we had the day-to-day kitchen chores to accomplish.

Clad in my chef's whites I stepped out of my house and sunk almost knee deep into the snow. Clearly, this wasn't going to be a day for sissies. After extricating my car from the snow, I eventually arrived at work after midday to find that Hartford House had also suffered the ravages of the snow storm; my sous chef Elaine was late for duty as two trees in her garden had landed on her car.

I was taken back to my training over the next six days when as much as possible had to be done by hand because we had very little electricity. I found muscles in my body I'd forgotten I had while whisking, kneading and beating. And, producing choux pastry for profiteroles for a more-than-a-metrehigh croque-en-bouche with no electricity was no joke.

Everything took so much longer to prepare because time was spent on simple tasks that were normally far quicker with electricity. Thankfully we were incredibly impressed with how successful our gas-cooked scones turned out to be.

To top it all off we had a wedding at Hartford House that weekend - and the bride had chosen an unusual dinner menu with a lot of homely platters of food. Normally our mains wouldn't require an electric oven, but we had hundreds of Yorkshire puddings to make and just before service, the generator died. This took cooking by candlelight to another level. That evening I thought the universe was seriously testing our culinary skills, but we took the challenges and overcame them. We were all working harder, faster and cleverer than before.

The kitchen team was put up at the hotel over the six days but we couldn't even enjoy the five star luxury properly because, with no electricity, we couldn't have a relaxing post-service bath! Having to adhere to a bath-time roster was a small issue really, but by day six we were all desperate to bath in our own homes. A happy chef means happy guests and this irritation was taking its toll on our usually happy kitchen team. You can imagine my joy when finally on day six, the warm glow of lights welcomed me home to my cottage.

The week delivered a record amount of snow for the area, as well as an action-packed, trying time for the Hartford House team. But as we reverted to the basics of cooking and serving, we were glad to have the fundamental principles and techniques of cooking up our sleeves. Clearly, you never know when you may need them.

Extract from Chef! Issue 32

Introducing Telicia Moolman

Telicia Moolman
(Photo : Leigh Willson)

"You can't say no to Belgium chocolate."

Telicia Moolman joined the Hartford House team in December 2012 to complete her 6 month work experience as she is currently studying hospitality through Central University of Technology. When asked about how she felt on hearing the news that she was chosen to do her work experience at Hartford House, Telicia responded:

"I was excited when I was chosen for Hartford House, it was my first choice! Once I heard the news I was excited and wanted to start work as soon as possible. I think the anticipation of what was to come made the last few days of university really drag. My biggest source of excitement came from what I was going to learn not only in the restaurant but in the kitchen under Chef Jackie Cameron."

We asked Telicia was differentiated her drive to work in the KZN Midlands from her drive to varsity in Bloemfontein:

"The scenery makes the drive quick, and the excitement of no classrooms! I really enjoy the practical side, so my drives to and from work normally involve thinking about what I will learn today... and what have I learnt today!"

When asked to choose her favourite dishes at Hartford House, Telicia didn't hesitate :

"Midlands Fish and Chips, Oxtail Risotto, Chocolate Fondant (you can't say no to Belgium chocolate)... and the whole breakfast menu!"

Lastly, we asked Telicia what phrase we would most likely hear her say during her working day:

"In my short time in practical's already, I am sure you will hear me say "chuck it" quite a bit..."

For more information please visit :
www.hartford.co.za

Simply Healthy Summer Recipes

Healthy Summer Recipes
(Photography : Karen E Photography)

"Cool, refreshing, healthy eating!"

Sweltering heat and an overindulgent festive season leads me to consider cool, refreshing, healthy eating. It's a good way to start the year. See if you can make it last!

When I think simplicity; tomato, avocado and fresh basil salad springs to mind. It's the foundation of traditional Caprese salad, a renowned Italian dish celebrated world wide for a very good reason - it's delicious. The first time I ate it, in its home country, was while I was working in Switzerland and I crossed the border for lunch in Italy - so over the top! Buffalo mozzarella is the traditional accompaniment to this salad. It's difficult to come by, and the price is restrictive so I use dollops of yoghurt. I have recently been introduced to The Gourmet Greek yoghurt. You'll find it on the Midlands Meander and I strongly recommend it. For those of you who follow me on Twitter and Facebook you will have read me waxing lyrical about the quality of this thick and creamy yoghurt. It works so well in this salad. Try it you won't be disappointed!

A smoked salmon terrine, in many different forms, is a popular dish on our menu here at Hartford House. As the years go by - and I get more adventurous - the ingredients become more complicated. But now I'm focussing on simplicity and highlighting the delicate smoked salmon.  For me, eating an apple on the core is uninteresting - unlike a peach, plum, litchi and mango - but when it comes to using it in a dish it offers a fresh crisp texture. This terrine is the heart of any seafood starter - on its own or as a side dish. Let your creativity loose.

Any hot, main course on such sultry evenings would be wasted on me. I have, therefore, chosen beef salad with peas, caramelised red onions and soft feta. I know you'll like it too.

Nicoise salad is another traditional favourite. It's gone out of fashion because it was over done and made without love. Make this salad with care otherwise it can go horribly wrong. Tuna, salty anchovies, perfectly-boiled new potatoes, boiled chicken/quail eggs, local olives, tomatoes and crunchy green beans - with or without croutons - promise a flavoursome explosion. We owe gratitude to the foodies/chefs of yesteryear whose experimentations have given us everlasting culinary masterpieces such as this one.

To end on the sweet side, homemade meringues, chunks of Belgian chocolate and my favourite... fresh apricot sorbet, with any available stoned fruit, add a hint of brilliance to the end of the meal.

Have you ever tried homemade marshmallows? They are so easy when you know how. Just follow my recipe. You must make sure you have a sugar/digital thermometer - and check that it works! Serve these light and fluffy mouthfuls with fresh granadilla pulp, and cocoa sorbet, which is the 'surprise' component of silver sugar balls. Here you have an interesting balance between sweet and tart.

Let's make 2013 memorable!

Take these recipe and try them!

Nicoise Salad
Tomato and Avocado Salad
Beef Fillet Salad
Smoked Salmon Salad
Apricot Sorbet and Meringues
Marshmallows and Cocoa Sorbet

Send comments and food-related questions to jackie@hartford.co.za. I always look forward to hearing from you. For the latest on local foodie news add me as a friend on FACEBOOK. Find me on Twitter - jackie_cameron.

Jackie Cameron
Head Chef
Hartford House
www.hartford.co.za
jackie@hartford.co.za
+27 33 263 2713

Photography courtesy of :
Karen Edward's Photography
082 441 7429
karene@bundunet.com
www.karenephotographysa.com
www.midlandsphotographers.wordpress.com

SASSI Ambassador Chef - Jackie Cameron